Panic!

xiao_liang
January 12, 2012 at 11:04 PM posted in General Discussion

Right! Off to China again tomorrow. Work's been too crazy, no time to study. Chinese is awful. Going for new year with all my girlfriend's family. Planning on asking her to marry me. Don't even know how to say it in Chinese. 

 

OH MY GOD PANIC!

 

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xiao_liang
February 01, 2012 at 10:58 AM

Entry 14

Today didn't start well. Christine had eaten some raw sashimi at the buffet place last night, and something untoward was happening inside her. To put it mildly, she had food poisoning, fortunately not of the explosive variety, but enough to keep her in bed.

Our original plan was that christine's dad was going to drive us to guangzhou's impressive Tv tower, but his back was particularly bad today and he couldn't drive. Much as I was a little torn between staying home and tending to the invalid, and not wanting to waste (so to speak), our last full day in China.

In the end, I proposed that I would wander over to the nearby yuexiushan park and spend a few hours wandering its leafy paths, being back in time for dinner. You may have noticed by now about my plans: not so hot.

Christine had given me instructions how to get there, expressing just how simple it was. Go left out of the house, don't go through the tunnel, go over the bridge, and go left along the street. Simple!

Ok, left along the street. Left, ok, along we go, there's the tunnel, don't go in it... um, this is a massive road, there's nothing here. Err. 10 minutes later I turned back and started again. Maybe she meant turn right? Or I heard wrong. ... Nope. Ok, maybe across the road? Nope.

Right, sod this, I'm going under the tunnel. This looks more like it! In fact there's the bridge, ok turn left. Keep walking. Keep walking. Keeeeeeeep walking.

I'm sure you get the idea, in any case I eventually ended up in the city's financial district, which is nowhere near the park. I eventually swallowed my pride and asked a security guard, who pointed me in the right direction. And then a second security guard when I got lost again.

An hour and a half later than planned, hot and slightly bothered, I eventually arrived at the park. I wrote about the park the last time I visited - it's basically a network of concrete paths around lakes and trees with a small hill in the middle crowned by a number of attractions: a Sun Yat Sen memorial, a statue of 5 goats (because the city is called the city of 5 goats see?), and a tower.

There's also, slightly bizarrely, a massive stadium in the middle of it, not to mention a fairground pumping out European dance music. I found one of my favourite things in the park again, right next to the kiddy's playground: some ex military equipment for kids to climb all over, including a MIG fighter jet, a tank, and a massive piece of artillery. Happy playing kids! Coolest playground ever.

I wasn't in the mood for paying to enter the memorial, or even to buy a ticket for the art gallery (cos I'm a massive cheapskate see?), so instead wandered the length of the park enjoying the English descriptions of things ("nice toilet", "excellently managed scenic spot"), and taking photos of pretty scenes.

There were lots of piles of grey masonry everywhere, ready to be made into something. I found out what at the top of the "excellently managed scenic spot" (where an elderly couple were happily and expertly kicking a weighted packet to each other). It appeared the authorities were building, or enhancing an existing wall, in the style of the great wall of china.

I eventually stumbled back, feet complaining violently to me at their vicious maltreatment. I hadn't really eaten so was pretty hungry. I know Christine had booked a restaurant for us all, but the poor thing was still feeling awful.

Christine's parents still wanted to go out, but I was feeling rather unsure. My Chinese is still so poor, we ran the risk of spending the entire meal in silence! Not to mention leaving my suffering girlfriend (oh sorry, fiancé!) at home while we went for a lovely meal.

Nonetheless, her parents weren't budging, and so out we went, heading for a hotpot restaurant. I won't pretend I was a conversational genius, but I got by ok thanks to Pleco (an iPhone translator), and we had plenty of mileage out of their tendency to order practically every dish in the restaurant. Apparently it's because they were happy because we were visiting. Awwwww.

On a plus note, Christine had managed to throw up when we returned, and was feeling much better! The downside was she was just feeling better in time to fly home tomorrow.

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svik
February 09, 2012 at 03:11 PM

xiao_liang, Thanks for reporting your adventures. 你真牛!

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xiao_liang
February 01, 2012 at 03:15 PM

Lol. Wow, haven't heard the name "Tucker Max" in years.

The latter is absolutely right! You validate my existence! Hehehe.

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pretzellogic
February 01, 2012 at 03:05 PM

I got it! I read, therefore you exist?

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pretzellogic
February 01, 2012 at 02:25 PM

What, am I "Credit" to your "Tucker Max"? (I love arcane references).

I suppose if I had manners, I would just say something like "you're very welcome", or "you're a funny guy, so keep at it", or something like that. Maybe i'll just leave it at "awww shucks," or something.

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xiao_liang
February 01, 2012 at 01:54 PM

Yea, running for an hour or two is ok, but walking for 4 or 5 every d ay for two weeks isn't so great :) It turns out I pronate quite badly (feet roll inwards), which means even with insoles, 34 years of walking badly has taken its toll on my feet!

Hey, thank you for always commenting on these silly entries, Pretzellogic - I genuinely appreciate it, you know. :) Makes me feel worthwhile! Hehe.

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pretzellogic
February 01, 2012 at 01:43 PM

"I eventually stumbled back, feet complaining violently to me at their vicious maltreatment".

I thought sometime ago, you said you were a runner. But if you're not, then I understand why your feet are complaining.

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xiao_liang
January 31, 2012 at 02:35 PM

Entry 13

Today started like every other here with a lazy awakening, but today we were meeting two of Christine's middle school friends, which was quite nice. I was secretly hoping they would dish some dirt on her, some hilarious story or untold history, since she insists she was very boring at school and there are no fun stories.

We caught a taxi to the area, but the girl, zhenzhen called to say the restaurant we'd planned to go to was closed. She arrived, and we greeted each other (in English, since she usually lives in San Diego), and walked along the street towards another mall. She and Christine chatted away in cantonese and I took in the sights, which included an interesting variety of street side sellers, offering anything from little gems with chinese on them to skewers of unidentifiable meat, plus a plethora of beggars, uncomfortably keen to demonstratetheir ailment to you, real or affected.

We reached the mall, and made our way up its 10 or more floors. It didn't seem to actually be selling too much, instead focused on attractions, mostly for children. There was a stage with performers, a giant glittering neon dragon and a flight of massive lit up paper cranes hanging from the ceiling.

There also didn't seem to be much in the way of eateries, but eventually the girls settled on a Taiwan-style hotpot place, where you each have your own individual pot of cooking soup, rather than the one big pot they prefer in China. Christine's second friend arrived, a guy named Li Jia, and we took a look at the menu, at which point our eyes widened. It seems the place had somewhat increased in price since zhenzhen last visited! This was going to be some expensive meal (mind you, only mid-range for the uk, but there's a reason we don't eat out often there...).

Li Jia worked for a Chinese bank, and had a pretty full-on time at work. He had to deal with clients a lot, and for a Chinese bank that means a LOT of drinking. His working days started with meeting clients in the morning (and drinking strong spirits along with full glasses of red wine), then working all afternoon and into the night. He said he always ate dinner in the office, and would work most weekends. Oh did I mention his bank gave no bonuses?

We chatted away, and the friends utterly failed to deliver any juicy school-days gossip, other than that she was always late for class, and the three of them were friends because they were the "three fatties" of their class! I found that pretty funny considering how slim the girls were now.

The first bit of food arrived, and we expressed surprise at how little it was, given the price we paid. Then some more food arrived. Then some more. Then another plate. Then a huge boat filled with seafood. Did I mention the bucket of desert?

This would be fine, as I've told you before my secret strategy for winning at Chinese meals, but it was already2pm,and we had been invited by christine's aunt to go out to a buffet restaurant with them later that day. In fact they were picking us up at 4.30! If we finished eating at 3ish, it gave us a mere 2 hours to digest before we would be expected to once again plough through unending plates of food. Uh oh.

We bid goodbye to the schoolfriends and walked, well waddled, via metro back home where I desperately tried to focus my body on digesting. On the way back we walked through the brilliant alleyways behind the block, and Christine translated some signs for me. My particular favourite was a place offering "blind massage" (literally: a massage by a blind person, which is a Chinese specialty). Next to it was another handwritten sign, apparently reading, "masseurs wanted, please apply within". But how would they know they were looking? They're supposed to be blind right?! ... Well, I thought it was funny.

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xiao_liang
January 31, 2012 at 06:36 PM

Eating seems certainly to be most of it, yup :)

Sadly, she's not quite as vain as I am, so I fancy wouldn't be too keen on sharing her intimate thoughts. Not to mention too polite, hehe. She does have a micro-blog though :-p

Unfortunately Siri doesn't understand her (very slight) accent!

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pretzellogic
January 31, 2012 at 04:45 PM

So this is what happens when you marry into a Chinese family? eating? On the other hand, this is what a vacation/marriage engagement trip is, I suppose. The opportunity to not be at work, and have fun meeting your new extended family and friends.

Now it would be really interesting to hear the other side of the story; having Christine blog about meeting your folks, and blogging in Chinese. Now that would be interesting. Maybe she could use your iPhone 4S with the british version of Siri (the guy with the british accent, not the woman with the american accent) to dictate her thoughts, then translate them onto Chinesepod in Chinese.

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xiao_liang
January 31, 2012 at 02:35 PM

We  were picked up within minutes and on our way to the restaurant with my waist still straining against my belt. After the obligatory getting lost in guangzhou's insanely complicated road system, we arrived at a queue of cars waiting to get into the restaurant's car park. I'd been told it was popular, but nothing prepared me for the scrum at the entrance. It was a full-on deathmatch, with elbows being employed as crowd surfing implements by all parties. Apparently if you have a reservation (which we did), and you're one minute late it's cancelled, so this is serious business!

We eventually managed to squeeze inside, where the crowds were thankfully less, mainly because this place was HUGE! When I think buffet, I normally expect one room, with a central depositary of a few dishes. This place was room after room after room of lavish cuisine. There must have been at least a hundred dishes, from Korean to Brazilian to western food. Free beer on tap, it was heaven for a food lover! Unless you happen to have eaten an enormous hotpot 3 hours earlier.

However being taken here was a real treat, and VERY expensive, so we did our level best. We managed to spend a long time wandering the halls, and ate when everyone else was back from foraging, and actually there was a lot that was really good, although a little too many things featuring shark fin for my taste and morality. 

At one point Christine's auntie turned up joyfully bearing a plate with 4 raw oysters - a rare delicacy, and her husband's favourite. 2 minutes later, Christine's mum arrived, and as a woman that doesn't do things by halves, had a plate bearing a further 12 raw oysters. No-one else actually wanted any, so we sat goggle eyed and watched as he ploughed his way through all 16 in a row. 

The placed closed at nine, but conscious of their popularity, the owners started to dim the lights at 8.30. Replete with complimentary (tiny portions, and strictly one per person) Haagen Dazs ice cream, we wobbled our way gently to the exit for a couple of obligatory photographs before chuntering back home.

2 banquets in a day. Feeling like a champion.  

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xiao_liang
January 30, 2012 at 09:14 PM

Entry 12

Nothing happened today particularly newsworthy. So instead here's a photo of my favourite new shop, that I found during another lengthy shopping expedition into Grand Buy. I hope you appreciate fully its wonderful name.

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xiao_liang
January 30, 2012 at 07:52 PM

Ugh, sorry for not finishing the diary yet! I have a few more entries, but we are back in England now (and back at work :-( ) and I am full of jet lag! Will sort it out in a bit.

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xiao_liang
January 28, 2012 at 01:51 AM

Entry 11

Wow, a lot happened today. I say today, it's actually yesterday, and by the time I finish this probably the day before. You'll see why in a minute.

So we started the day lazily since Christine wanted a day just chilling in her house. We skipped lunch since it was going to be a big dinner tonight, and went off for a foot massage to relieve our poor beleaguered feet.

The place we ended up in was actually a shot in the dark since the place Christine usually went to had closed. We needed to make sure it wasn't dodgy, but it seemed ok, if a bit dilapidated. There was a big red sign on the wall that i couldn't read, but apparently it said: "warning! Forbidden! "yellow gambling poison"" yellow means prostitution, gambling is obvious and poison means drugs! Mind you, there was also a no smoking sign, along with an ashtray and a cigarette stub.

Amazing foot massage complete and fleet of foot, we skipped (well, shuffled) back home to get ready for the big family night out!

It's apparently a Feng family tradition to have a massive meal (pretty much like every Chinese family) followed by a karaoke competition, judged by the elders of the family. This hadn't happened for several years, because the family had scattered across china and the world somewhat, but no-one was going to let this year slide, since every family member bar a few in-laws was in town for the first time in years. All 24 of them!

Dinner was to take place at a fancy FANCY hotel called the White Swan. To put this in context of how fancy it is, there's a waterfall in the lobby. And I don't mean a little waterfall, it's 3 stories high. There's also an enormous jade galleon just as you walk in. It's all rather pleasant.

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cinnamonfern
January 28, 2012 at 03:28 AM

Oh, frog isn't so bad. My friend ordered it without telling me what it was (chopped in nice little pieces in a stew). I thought I was eating fish until I realized the bone I just removed from my mouth had definitely once been a part of something's leg (ball joint, you know). And snake is good - it tastes like chicken. But I'm totally with you on the raw clams. Not sure I could do that...Ehh...

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pretzellogic
January 28, 2012 at 02:48 AM

I feel for you. In he'll, Satan makes you sing karaoke.

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xiao_liang
January 28, 2012 at 01:54 AM

The evening went uphill from there, with most members of the family belting out everything from 1930s military anthems to S.H.E. hits. I had to physically restrain myself from collapsing at the historic video for one marching song featuring goose stepping right out of springtime for hitler. "Is this serious?!", I asked Christine. "Deadly serious!" she replied. 

Their singing voices were actually rather good, secret operatic stars all! Later on there was even some credible ballroom dancing, and one astonishing Cha Cha Cha, which we tried our hand at (and failed).

Earlier on I had been talking to JiaJia who was asking me if I really eat everything. Of course! I replied. The only things I couldn't eat are 蛇 (snake), 乌龟 (turtle), and 青蛙 (frog)! Towards the end of the evening, Christine came over to tell me that the cousins wanted to go out to eat (eat more?!) after the karaoke. What's on the menu? 青蛙... Oh boy

So bidding farewell to the hall of shame, the younger family members, including JiaJia with her parent's permission, headed out into the wilds of Guangzhou. One couple knew a great place for us to go apparently, but first we had to go and pick up the new mum and dad. 20 minutes later we admitted we were lost and spent quite some time sitting in a darkened side street on the phone. Bear in mind this is past midnight, JiaJia was still getting phone calls from her classmates, asking for help with their homework. The GaoKao is a fearsome beast and no mistake.

We eventually arrived at a busy busy street and were "helped" to park by no less than three people, all of whom were giving different directions. (accurate translation of their "conversation": "Here, HERE, no, OY fatty! Let them park here for god's sake").

I am told that this is the real cantonese lifestyle - late night dinners. Thankfully frog is off the menu, but pretty much everything else that wriggles in the sea was on. The restaurant was ... well let's just say not the cleanest I've ever seen. It was hugely noisy and we were surrounded by apparently quite drunk people drinking, eating, gambling, and enjoying themselves. 

The Canadian guy by now was taking 加班 "overtime" to new ninja-style levels. We were sitting in the suburbs of Guangzhou, in an insanely popular filthy dirty seafood restaurant, and the guy had his laptop out, frantically typing away. That's pressure for you.

I've mentioned before my mild seafood phobia, which I dutifully ignore in the name of impressing relatives, but when the first dish arrived, and was not just clams, but raw clams, thankfully I wasn't the only person that baulked. I may be of questionable sanity, but raw shellfish is way beyond me!

The rest of the meal went well, and we chatted away. Well, I chatted a bit, everyone else chatted a lot while I tried to follow the conversation. We eventually were dropped back at gone 3am, and dropped into bed, declaring that I think I'm too old to be a Cantonese person. 

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xiao_liang
January 28, 2012 at 01:53 AM

I am now fully aware of the necessary requirements at enormous Chinese banquets and was doing fine. Except there's one cousin with a mischievous nature that we've met before who made sure to pick on me. No bone is left ungnawed, and in the case of a huge pork bone, muggins here was given a little plastic glove and told to make sure it was clean as a whistle. 

Nai Nai was looking a bit miffed at one point, and I asked why. Turns out the new mum and dad have a full time nanny, but she wasn't present. She had committed the outrage of asking for three whole days leave for Chinese new year, something grandma found untenable. Mind you, it wasn't as if there wasn't enough childcare available - the mum barely saw the baby, it was passed through so many hands, thankfully mostly fast asleep.

Dinner complete, we headed out into the lobby for one hundred million photographs, presided over by another cousin's husband, who had managed to trump Christine's dad in the camera stakes - unheard of! I'm featured in several photos looking dazed, full and happy, and slightly unsure who any of the people around me are.

We split into people's cars to head to the karaoke place. Christine and I split up, and i travelled with her cousin JiaJia's family, where we made slightly stilted conversation with my poor chinese and her slightly less poor English. 

We arrived and there were slightly horrified glances from the younger members - this was no KTV! Apparently a very old style of karaoke, a large room with a stage  featuring two microphones, and tables around the edge, where you wrote your song choice on a little card. The song choice was expected to be equally antique, and I sat back, relieved that I wouldn't be forced to embarrass myself in front of christine's family.

Not so. 

With a rolling of eyes, she sighed and said "look, let's get it out of the way early, then we can relax", and I was dragged into the little room with the song machine to desperately try and find anything I know. The bizarre english song listing included the backstreet boys' back catalogue, a bunch of songs I didn't recognise, "fuck you" by Lily Allen, and lady gaga's poker face. 

In the end, Christine picked "I just called to say I love you", and pushed me on to stage to get it over with, at which point I realised that although obscenely famous I actually only knew the chorus to this song. Bless her socks, she came on stage and sang it with me, but humiliating doesn't begin to describe it!  (to salve my ego, I did go on stage later and do a credible "cry me a river", which was declared 更好! Or "much better!")

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xiao_liang
January 28, 2012 at 01:52 AM

But first we all drove down to YeYe and NaiNai's place to greet the family as they all arrived. Including their newest arrival, a grandchild from one of christine's cousins. 

24 chinese people and a baby all greeting each other in one small room is something of a noisy experience! Red packets were flying everywhere and I was very happy to stand in a corner looking slightly awkward making passing conversation about the portraits (and statues) of chairman Mao that littered the living room with the Canadian Chinese dad of the new baby. 

Soon we all piled into cars and made our way to the hotel. I say "we". Being "young" and healthy (and unbeladen by children), we walked, but it fortunately wasn't too far. Up in the hotel lobby there were more greetings, more relatives, more red envelopes, but my newfound friend, who I gather is something of a high flyer had flipped out his laptop. The couple live in Hong Kong, where the work ethic is work, work, work and why have you stopped working?! Get on with it! So he was embroiled in 加班, or overtime, even at a family dinner. 

There was mild chaos at the dinner tables as I got to watch family rank in action. 3 tables

We're quickly made into 2 and relatives grumbled as they were shifted from one table to another. Christine's dad commented with a chuckle that New year was a time when you can see Chinese families at their most harmonious. And she told me he didn't understand sarcasm...

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pretzellogic
January 27, 2012 at 03:35 AM

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xiao_liang
January 27, 2012 at 01:24 AM

Entry 10

Today we didn't have any specific plans. We had an idea to do nothing special in the morning, and maybe go see something in the city in the afternoon. At something of a loose end after getting up, we thought we might take BaoBao for a little walk around the terrace on top of the building.

This didn't go down so well with mum and dad, who said if you're going to go out, you have to go out properly (whyyyyy?!). So, somewhat reluctantly, we found ourselves shoved out the door before lunch to go and ... do something.

We wandered the brilliant alleyways of Yuexiu to see if a foot massage place Christine liked was open (it wasn't. In fact, it had closed down altogether). Since we had no joy, we caught a passing taxi to a shopping district for a bit more wandering. Dad had suggested we might go to a park, but I had visited last year, and it was flipping cold today, sowe thought we might see somewhere new. It did seem very richly decorated for the new year as we drove past. Maybe we'll go there another day this week.

We might seem terribly extravagant, taking taxis everywhere. But taxis in china are ludicrously affordable. The most we've paid is ¥22, which is less than a sandwich in England. They're also omnipresent. I don't think I've gone less than a minute on any average road without seeing at least 3 trundle by. Except when you desperately want to call one of course, then the road is suddenly mysteriously empty.

The area we travelled to was called LiWan district. A massive extended set of shopping streets. I've literally never seen quite so many small stores in a row. I know, I know, 1.3 billion people, but still. My favourite shops were "Swank Girl", and "Pizazz Boy", and we had a good time spotting the carbon copy brands such as OAT shoes, which looked suspiciously like CAT shoes.

As we walked up to the main shopping area we were greeted by the extraordinary sight of 3 female security guards engaged in a full on fight! Not quite sure what it was about, but there was some spilled food on the floor, so your guess is as good as mine.One was desperately trying to keep the other two apart, and the one that looked the most crazy mad had taken off her shoe, and was engaged with trying her hardest to flatten the third with it. I'm not sure if this formed part of security guard training or not. "right ladies, if you see any wrongdoing, the most important thing is to whip your shoe off and attempt to make an imprint of its tread on the miscreant's forehead." it was certainly providing entertainment for the new year's day shoppers, who had formed an amiable crowd around this unexpected entertainment as we hurried past.

We were a bit peckish, but had a big dinner to look forward to, so decided to grab a couple of 小吃 (little snacks) from some roadside stalls. To choose from was shrimp on a stick, squid on a stick, egg on a stick, fish ball on a stick... It's fair to say that the stick was the preferred choice of culinary transport in this particular market.

Deciding to buck the trend, I opted for tofu in a pot, which was unexpectedly amazingly delicious. I did however deliver a massive Chinese fail. The store owner asked me "你来看过年吗?"(have you come to see the new year?). Not understanding at all, I took a valiant guess and confidently replied "两个星期!" (two weeks!). It's fair to say I have some way to go with my studies.

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pretzellogic
January 27, 2012 at 03:27 AM

In that case, just polish off the horrible version of "2002年的第一场雪"。

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xiao_liang
January 27, 2012 at 03:20 AM

At the antique place we went to, I guarantee there wasn't :-)

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pretzellogic
January 27, 2012 at 03:18 AM

The next time I'm forced to do karaoke, I'm checking to see if there's any Coldplay on the play lists.

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xiao_liang
January 27, 2012 at 01:25 AM

The shopping street was extraordinarily crowded, with every shop employing microphones to holler just how much of a saving their sale was delivering. Or in one case, a woman outside clapping. Not sure what that was about. We did look for shoes for me in one shop, but forgot about the whole unnaturally large feet thing. On hearing my size, the assistant looked practically nauseous and directed us to a shelf where they kept the only repugnant shoes available in "enormous", "gargantuan", and "shocking vast" sizes. Not keen.

However, however dear readers,  you will be overcome with joy (or perhaps tepid apathy) to hear I have encountered Chinese shopping success! We had planned to find a body warmer, hence removing the need to compensate for my unnaturally long arms. Whilst waiting for the shop assistant to fetch my size (gargantuan) in our chosen style, I tried on a nice jacket just for the hell of it, and nearly died of shock when it actually fit. And at 70% off (or 0.3 in Chinese sales speak), we snapped them both up! I'm not entirely sure I really need two coats, but what a bargain! 

We grabbed a couple more things (red underwear since next year is my Chinese birth year... Don't ask), and admired a scrum over clothes going for ¥10. Eventually my poor beleaguered feet complained and we caught a cab home.

Tonight we were going out for dinner with Christine's parents at a restaurant serving Hunan cuisine. The family are... How can I put this... Enthusiastic orderers. Even with my newfound ability to manage enormous Chinese banquets, food was still arriving when my belt was about to snap under stomach-laden pressure. There was no need to drive, so

Christine's dad had ordered a kind of herbal rice wine and was enthusiastically toasting us, and getting very merry. The food was utterly great, including an exceedingly tender pork dish that apparently was chairman Mao's favourite. All I know is that I got a cheerful round of applause every time I had a piece, which was kind of sweet. 

Doggy bags in hand, we wandered back home past the late night sellers offering brightly lit toys, clothes, and chicken of dubious quality cooked over hot coals.

 I'm sitting watching the Chinese culture ministry's new year gala, which outclasses last night's 4 1/2 hour show by a league. Not sure I'll ever be a fan of Chinese opera though. Tomorrow, karaoke competition! Bring on the elvis!

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xiao_liang
January 26, 2012 at 03:21 AM

Entry 9

Today is new year's Eve! Perhaps the most important day in the Chinese calendar. We didn't have much planned for the morning, but got out of bed a little late. Christine's mum wanted us to go buy flowers with her to put around the house so we went to have some noodles for breakfast in a little cafe in the maze of alleyways behind where they live. Clearly her mum is an expert at this, because her dish arrived packed with different noodles and plenty of meat whereas ours appeared to be mostly noodles and coriander,  which happens to be Christine's least favourite herb. Fortunately, Chinese mums have a certainly power, and our dishes were soon replete with extra servings. Breakfast for 3 , ¥40 or £4. Amazing.
 
Soon, loaded head to toe with flowers, we made our way up the 8 flights of stairs back home. I helped get some vases out and nearly died when dad casually mentioned that particular one was qing dynasty. When getting the vases out, I'd accidentally knocked a finger from a figure on another vase. no one seemed too concerned, but it'll probably turn out to be worth a gazillion yuan now.
 
We hung around and had a short nap,  then piled into the car to go to grandma's house for the annual new year's celebration. The family were all present, at least the male members of the family and their families. By tradition, daughters go to their husband's family. Something like that anyway. I find chinese families hugely confusing since everyone calls each other 哥哥 (brother) and 姐姐 (sister) even though they're cousins, and any inlaw is referred to as "suchandsuch's husband". Nod and smile, nod and smile, excellent strategy.
Christine's cousin JiaJia was there, who at 17 is preparing for the fearsome GaoKao exam, which determines pretty much your entire academic career, and therefore how good a job you're likely to get afterwards for the rest of your life. So you could say quite important. So she was busy even at new year, studying history. And when I say studying, I mean Chinese style studying, which involves memorising endless test answers until your brain explodes. She also had to endure literally every adult cajoling her to take the apparently precious opportunity to practice English with me, although as she explained, her teachers only really cared about their ability to write sentences.

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xiao_liang
January 26, 2012 at 03:21 AM

JiaJia said her English name was "Chris", which is fine, but she wasn't happy to find out that's a boy's name, unless it's short for Christine, which is Christine's name. Obviously. So I got to choose her a new name, which was fun. (after several rejected efforts, we went for Lauren, should you be interested).

 

The family were in good spirits, getting ready for the new year meal and annual viewing of the national new year gala. Most of the girls were upstairs preparing the 饺子 dumplings traditionally eaten at new year. I was allowed to join in and managed to not hopelessly embarass myself, although my little parcel was declared somewhat lean. That's not a metaphor, in case you were wondering.

 

We sat down to dinner, which was excellent, and drank 甜酒 - a kind of chinese rice spirit out of tiny cups (and one egg cup, strangely enough) . It was however, very cold, since the upstairs we were eating in opened onto grandad's garden on a balcony, concealed by a highly insulating thin curtain. 

As Christine's dad put it,  吃热你不冷. "eat hot, and you won't be cold"! The family spent the meal gleefully pointing out each others faults. Mum's cooking was roundly lambasted, mum listed the time dad came home drunk and lost his wallet, all in good humour (I'm assuming, since at no point was a plate of shrimps emptied over anyone's head) and everyone enjoyed themselves, although there was some eye rolling from the younger family members when grandad launched into a brief lecture on what he considered virtues that I gather had been heard literally every year of their entire lives.

 

We then descended to the  (thankfully warm) living room to watch the annual new year's tradition of the CCTV new year gala, watched (or possibly endured) by 700 million people each year. Featuring the cream (or at least what i assume is multiple committees' agreement of what is the cream) of Chinese singing, comedy, dance, and acrobatic talent, it also appeared to be host to a secret competition to determine which host's hair could be hoisted to the most ludicrously gelled height. If you're from England,  imagine the royal variety performance, but it's FOUR HOURS LONG. I particularly enjoyed the audience shots showing the important (probably) and lucky (questionably) people variously clapping, laughing, looking confused and/or bored, and in one case, sleeping soundly.

 

After a while we all bid goodbye to 宝宝and 爷爷 who we would be seeing again in a couple of days for a family KTV karaoke competition (you think I'm making this up?!) and drove back through the unbelievably empty streets home, where we promptly carried on watching until the show ended with dancing robots and a lovely big singalong. 

 So that's new year Chinese style!  Happy new year everyone!

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xiao_liang
January 25, 2012 at 06:24 AM

Entry 8

 
today we spent a lazy morning doing... not a lot around the house.  I studied some Chinese and we took silly pictures of 宝宝. nothing exciting. Then we were off to meet with christine's dad and view the guangzhou flower market - a new year's tradition!
 
The market is open for only 3 days a year, and when i say open for three days, it's open for three days straight -72 hours of full on flower selling. Doing a full circuit of the market is supposed to bring you luck. it's particularly lucky if you happen to enjoy buying a type of squash that looks a bit like a lemon, available in stems of about 50 fruit literally every three paces.
 
The flower market was PACKED with people, smiling (and taking pictures), buying flowers (and taking pictures), posing (for pictures), and waving spinny things (you get the idea). Christine's dad is a photography fanatic, and had one of the most enormous cameras I've ever seen, gleefully taking pictures of anything photogenic that moved (or didn't).  The sellers apparently try and make a whole year's profit in these three hectic days, so the fact some looked a bit sour may have been down to the recent cold weather making it difficult to produce the quality of flowers punters like to buy. Not that I could tell, since they all seemed lovely to me. It was interesting to see flowers with little meshes around their blooms, I assume to stop them fully blooming before a passing reveller took a fancy to them.
 
People were certainly buying flowers, but not as many as were buying inflatable giraffe heads, dragon hats, and thousand upon thousand of spinny doodads on a stick,  which apparently were supposed to spin in the wind and shower you with good luck. We bought one with angry birds on. it's entirely possible this was showering us with angry birds, which is what I'm blaming for the small argument we had about shopping a bit later.
 
Shopping... ahhhh (that's one A on the tourism scale of how much fun it is).  We wandered into Grand Buy, a giant department store brimming with branded goods. Actually branded goods, not the cheapo ones we looked at before. There was nominally a sale on, but if you're not in on the secret Chinese sale code, there's no way of telling.  There'll be a sign above each shelf which will have a few characters and a number.  For example 8.5. This means that the items are at 8.5/10 of normal price, or 15% off,  if you're normal. Then it's up to you to work out what 85% of ¥359 is, I wish you luck.
 
I find shopping for clothes in China to be supremely frustrating for several reasons.  Firstly, the shop assistants are downright creepy. Unless the shop is busy,  they come up uncomfortably close to you and start offering helpful suggestions. Which I guess would be fine unless your Chinese is hopeless in which case they get a vague lost look in their eyes then say, "ohh, HELLO! ". Then terrified by the prospect you might take this as an opportunity to strike up an English conversation, they linger just behind your elbow, unable to either help or communicate.
 Secondly, absolutely nothing fits. And i mean nothing. I'm a 6 foot slim guy with size 10 (UK, so a US 11) feet. Needle in a haystack doesnt describe it. Anything my size for the body has arms that reach just below my elbows, and anything that fits my arms is made for someone with a belly the size of the laughing buddha! As for shoes, well i guess you could buy them, but none of the reasonably priced chinese brands reaches above a size 9, and if im going to be ripped off for shoes, i might as well do it in pounds.
 
I'm writing this now while we sit and watch a programme about Confucius. For some reason, Christine's parents like to have all the windows open, despite the fact that it's about 10 degrees. So I'm sitting here in a coat. Is this normal? Possibly for China, I've no idea. We've eaten here most nights this week, and I'm quite proud of myself. I gave up vegetarianism 2 years ago, and I'm by no means fussy, however I do sometimes struggle in China where it seems they will eat most things so long as it at one time related to an animal. I'm particularly bad with tentacles, and today's dinner was composed of squid, amongst other things. Hmn. I also found the quartered duck's heads a bit testing, but mainly because it's so hard to find anything to actually eat on them. Nonetheless, I eat everything, without a qualm!
 
This has been something of a whiny entry. Believe me when I say I'm still enjoying myself! I'm already sad that there's less than a week left. Tomorrow is new year's Eve and we'll all be at grandma's house making Chinese dumplings or 饺子 for new year! On with the celebrations!

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chris
January 25, 2012 at 07:49 AM

Yep, I can also vouch the cold comments. Entirely natural for the whole household to be inside the flat/house wearing winter underwear, a few middle layers and a big bomber-jacket on top. No heating on and with the windows open. Just imagine if the whole country started doing what we unfortunately all too frequently do in the west, and turn up the heating to 25 degrees just so we can wonder around in shorts and tshirt in middle of winter. Not sure the earth's resources would last more than one chinese winter if that was the case!

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pretzellogic
January 25, 2012 at 07:28 AM

I'm with you on the cold front. Mid winter in Beijing, no less. They say "we need to open the windows!" I say, "So we can breathe in the fresh smog?" I get overruled anyway, and the windows are open to let out the heat we paid for.

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xiao_liang
January 24, 2012 at 03:14 AM

Entry 7

Today was a day that not much happened, if I'm honest. My sleep was interrupted by a lot of noise outside (and we're on the 8th floor!), I assume from night workers coming home or some such, so I was a bit groggy. But that didn't stop us from pursuing a hard day of... 逛. Yay?

We were meeting up with Christine's childhood friend, Mu Li for a bit of lunch. For a treat, we were going to eat Korean food, but on arriving we found the restaurant was ridiculously expensive. That is, expensive china-style at about £3-4 per course. The same went for the second choice of Malaysian cuisine so we ended up in a hong kong style restaurant round the corner.

I kind of phased put a bit during dinner (which was very nice, should you be overwhelmed with the desire to know. Noodles in soup with large sausage slices), because my poor Chinese really isn't up to full conversation, although Christine would fill me in every few sentences. It was just really nice to see the two old friend catch up. It's hard to appreciate if you've never done it (as I haven't), but living far away from home makes it very hard to keep friendships strong, so there's no way I would begrudge their time together.

After lunch we wandered slowly (and I mean sloooooowly) through shopping arcades, looking variously for iPhone cases for dad, Christine and me, bags for Christine and even a wallet for me.

Cases weren't too much of a problem, although I was surprised that there wasn't really too much of a difference in price between England and china. When I eventually found one I liked, Christine commented regretfully that shops like this don't let you barter, at which point the assistant knocked 60远 from the price and then a further 20.

For the bags, we wandered (sloooooooowly) up to a series of market stalls all under one roof. 3 floors of stalls all crammed together basically selling the same stuff. It's a phenomenon that in china if you want a particular kind of shop, you're guaranteed to find them all clustered in the same area. If you want a phone shop, you go to the phone shop street! Want a statue? Why that'd be down statue street! Jade bracelet? ... You get the idea.

This particular market was the fake market! Rammed to the rafters with almost-genuine Versace, Gucci, Hugo boss, and Louis vitton. All, of course, offered at a fraction of the price of the original. Unfortunately, the originals were thousands of pounds, so this stuff was still comparatively expensive (for china). I caught Christine admiring a handbag, and recognised it as exactly the same handbag she'd been admiring a year and a half ago when we last visited. It was priced at ¥2300, or about £230, which to my mind is a lot. But bear in mind the original is apparently worth thousands.

She eventually put it down with a sigh (echoed by a sigh of my own, One of relief.)When I asked her why, she said a handbag like this was very recognisable. If people thought it was genuine, they'd think she was obscenely wealthy. And if they didn't believe that, they'd know it was fake, so what's the point? What indeed?!

I eventually didn't buy a wallet. Mine is battered but I still really like it, and if I was going to spend £18 on a wallet, I might as well do it in England. Maybe we'll go back and try again elsewhere. There's a Chinese brand called Goldlion that I really like, but it doesn't come cheap. Such is the price of excellent taste!

Returning home, we sat down to dinner (although minus mum, who cooks but doesn't join us at the table, instead contributing to conversation from the kitchen). We entered into a slightly awkward but wide-ranging 3-way conversation about china, politics, England's place in the world and the history of elections, with christine translating both ways while chipping in at the same time.

To summarise: the future lies with with the BRIC countries: brazil, Russia, India and China, but the US will be around for a while yet. The UK's light is fading, Scottish devolution is a bad idea, africa will never rise to prominence as it's too fragmented, china will have elections but it will take a while, and no one has any idea if north korea has any nuclear weapons.

Well I did say it was wide ranging.

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xiao_liang
January 25, 2012 at 04:10 AM

I don't know about Senna but 2 days ago we walked past a stall selling (amongst others) DVDs of "the great magician" which isn't out at the

Cinema yet, so I'm guessing the pirate trade is alive and well here...

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pretzellogic
January 24, 2012 at 12:52 PM

In Beijing, there has been a crackdown on pirated DVDs. I am actually curious about how far the crackdown extends. Hence my genuine question about "Senna".

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xiao_liang
January 24, 2012 at 04:34 AM

Note: not my opinions!

Google isn't working too well here, what's the thing about Senna? Or are you genuinely asking? :-)

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pretzellogic
January 24, 2012 at 04:15 AM

I'm glad that the US will be around for awhile. I have to go to Vegas in March :-)

Why the US is paying $300 for a iPod, then UK/Europe pays 300 pounds/300 euros for the same type of iPod is beyond me.

Let me know if you can buy the movie "Senna" on DVD in Guangdong/Hainan.

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xiao_liang
January 24, 2012 at 03:15 AM

Christine has also been the victim of (albeit light-hearted) attack today! First she's told her English isn't good enough (I assure you, it is excellent), and then that her boss won't approve of her painting her nails. The latter is quite funny, and indicative of the large cultural gap between the way companies work in china, and the way they do in the west. With some glee, christine tells him that my boss is a woman who has dyed her hair with streaks of red! (which is true). Moreover, since I work in the health service, 75% of my colleagues are women, including the chief exec! I'm not sure her dad believes her...

Cultural differences aside, I'm actually very proud of my girlfriend, who like many Chinese students, travelled to the west at the age of 17, knowing elementary English. Since then she fought her way through education and qualification, without the endless reserves of cash that some overseas students possess. She found a good job, and worked with that particular chinese focus to make a success of herself. What a woman! No wonder I want her to be my wife. She also happens to be beautiful, funny and erudite, and anyone who says I'm biased shall be dutifully ignored!

You can all stop throwing up now. :-)

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xiao_liang
January 23, 2012 at 02:07 AM

Entry 6

Today was a momentous day. The day for christine's annual hair cut! I think a hair cut in a "proper" hairdresser is half her real reason to return to China every year, and so today we took a cab to a place her friend had recommended... Which we couldn't find. So we walked about 200m and fell over 26 other hairdressers loitering around looking shifty. 
The cunning plan was that while she was having her barnet immaculately coiffured, I would have another massage, because the 17 year old from other day had properly ballsed up my calf muscles for some reason. Plus because it's £5 per hour and frankly it'd be rude not to. 
So we were delighted to find a hair dresser that massaged you upstairs (literally, not metaphorically). Genius! So Christine had a cut and blow dry, and I was violently attacked by a nice lady who kept asking me if I would introduce her to any English men. Um, any takers? She was very nice. This is weird, I'll move on. 
We spent most of the rest of the day just kind of wandering around. There's a word for it in Chinese - 逛. We did a lot of 逛. Had lunch in a little cafe: £1.70 for both of us (yes really), and then explored a shopping mall until we were a bit tired. 
The thing you notice about china is there's an awful lot of people. Now, that might seem like a stupid thing to say, we all know there's 1.3billion of 'em. But the population means that people are kind of in excess supply. So every restaurant has 3 greeters and 6 waiters, there's countless officials, guards and policemen, and the shops. The shops! We went into Watsons, which is like Chinese Boots (if you're English) - a high street chemist. And I thought, "Wow, this is crowded." Then every time we literally looked at anything, anything at all, a woman would be asking if we needed help? Have you tried this one? Oh this is good, and you get this free. I'm not joking, there was a shop assistant on EVERY AISLE, sometimes 2 per aisle! In this very small outlet there were over 20 staff, all of whom were deeply over-eager to press slightly over-expensive cosmetics into your waveringly unwilling hands. 
By the time we left we'd somehow spent nearly £50, so I guess it worked. We also dropped into a toy store to get some neat gundam robots you can't get in england. For my kids. For my kids, honest! They are super cool though. Currently trying to resist just... Testing them out. A little bit. Y'know, to make sure they work properly.
We've spent the evening showing christine's dad how to use his brand new iPhone 4s. The 4s has just been released here, and is the ultimate status symbol. There was a riot outside the apple store when it was released, since there wasn't enough stock and Chinese scalpers had paid hundreds of students and others to wait outside the store for days to grab the maximum stock possible for resale at outrageous prices. The students still needed paying and the scalpers had no reward. Take that, Chinese pirates and profiteers. 
The phone's touch screen means he can also write characters and we can FaceTime him from the uk. Which is all very well, except the stupid thing keeps locking out his apple ID and not telling us why. Ahh, technology, how we love you. Confounding old and perplexing young alike. 
Tomorrow, more shopping and lunch with Christine's best friend. After that, Chinese new year and the public holiday begins for real!

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xiao_liang
January 23, 2012 at 07:44 AM

The only ones I've seen have been a kid throwing fire crackers! Oh and some crazy person firing them on their balcony in Sanya! I think Guangzhou still has a city ordinance banning them...

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pretzellogic
January 23, 2012 at 04:14 AM

Fireworks!!!!!!!

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xiao_liang
January 22, 2012 at 05:53 AM

Entry 5

So today, the third and final day of our beach holiday, we actually decided to go to ... a beach! Ok so we'd been on a beach a little bit, and to be fair, I'd got sand all over my knee when I proposed, but that was the middle of the night, so doesn't really count.
Hainan is famous for its beaches, particularly Ya Long Bay, which is known as the most perfect and clean  of all the beaches. Why? Well because it's owned by a dozen multinational hotel chains of course! So the big corporations keep it nice and perfect for all the (wealthy) happy (and wealthy) tourists who come to bask in its glory (and spend lots of money). 
We took a taxi there, since we'd checked out and had all our bags with us. The beach is really supposed to be for the hotel guests only and the taxi driver made no bones about telling us with some dire prediction there was no way we'd get on to it. Waving good bye to him we paid a small fee to get into an exhibition area and walked straight onto the beach. Which goes to show that people who tell you to ask taxi drivers for advice also shouldn't be asked for advice.
Oh, I tell a lie. We didn't walk straight onto the beach. Our admission to the "central plaza" also allowed us the once in a lifetime opportunity to visit the world famous shell museum of Ya Long Bay. Oh, you haven't heard of it? I can't imagine why. What could be more thrilling than about 100 cases with shells in them, each case with a single name and absolutely no information whatsoever? Oh, it did have an enormous gift shop though. You'll never guess what you could buy there. Clue: not coconuts.
So back to the beach, which was a massive stretch of the whitest sand. We paid a fee to sit under a big umbrella but soon realised we'd chosen possibly the worst spot on the beach to do so. The ever needy tourist market can't be doing with just sun sea and sand. Of course it also needs jet skis, banana boats, giant transparent zorbs, quad bikes, scuba diving, pedalos! And the place they all started from was about 3 1/2 metres in front of our lounger. 
The beach was segregated into swimming and non swimming areas, with lifeguards provided by the hotels, swimming for hotel guests only (although how they'd tell I don't know). What was extraordinary was walk 50 metres between each designated area and it was practically deserted. There must have been a thousand or more people on that beach, but we happily set up camp on a particular glorious stretch  and there wasn't a soul within 100 metres of us. But I could still walk for half a minute into one of the hotel controlled bits and buy a drink from their bar. Perfect!
One extraordinary thing about Chinese beaches was the sheer amount of clothes. It was HOT today, and I mean 30 degrees plus hot (again... Middle of January...). Yet chinese modesty is such that there were people in layers on that beach. Christine was wearing tights! The occasional white person shone out like a shining beacon of freakishly naked bikini wearers. I took off my shirt and three people tried to roll me back into the sea, thinking an albino whale must have beached by mistake. 
Still, there is nothing more glorious than lounging on a roasting white sand beach, happily turning lobster red. Sadly our time was all-too-soon up, and we caught a taxi to the airport (the driver of which spent the journey attempting to sell us various items of dubious value). After the expected delay to our internal flight (friends don't let friends fly internal flights in China. I'm serious), we touched down back in Guangzhou. Let the spring festival preparations begin!

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ouyangjun116
January 27, 2012 at 09:31 AM

Heh, I guess that since I've been out of the US for quite some time that I forget about the terrible delays I've had there.... O'Hare, Philly..... Ughhh, and Newark...

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pretzellogic
January 27, 2012 at 03:11 AM

Huh. Fair enough. I guess I'm jaded by the multiple times I've slept at O'Hare, Dulles and Philadelphia airports because of flight delays, flight cancellations due to crew rest, weather, and then being told squat by USAirways, United, Continental, American, etc. I've never slept in a Chinese airport before. Might be an interesting experience. At least at O'Hare, some staffer threw a United blanket on me at around 2:30am. Maybe Air China gives you snacks and tea....

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ouyangjun116
January 27, 2012 at 01:43 AM

I can second the Chinese internal airlines being terrible. I fly a lot, my worst experiences have all been on domestics flights from/to Shanghai-Beijing and Shanghai-Shenzhen. My last 3 flights alone had a total of 16 hours of delays and one canceled flight.... The airlines are completely unorganized and don't keep their guests informed for domestics flights. On the other hand I flew from Shanghai to Phuket Thailand last week, was expecting big delays, but was only delayed an hour... I'm so used to delays in China that I considered that a good take off time.

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pretzellogic
January 23, 2012 at 04:12 AM

Oh. I take it your job doesn't require you to fly much.

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xiao_liang
January 22, 2012 at 07:45 AM

No, I really think Chinese internal flights are pretty bad, although I've only been on them 4 times. 3 of those 4 were delayed, the passengers are extra especially rude, there's literally nothing to do. At least they are relatively short!

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pretzellogic
January 22, 2012 at 06:36 AM

Good description of the beach. I need beaches to be wide (~50 meters or more of sand) and long (5-15 miles or so). I'll have to consider Hainan as a vacation spot.

Not sure if you're joking for effect or not. I kinda liked internal flights in China. Definitely some of the airlines are on the quirky side, but different. I can't imagine any American based airline leading us in group exercises the way that one Chinese airline did (I forget which one it was).

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xiao_liang
January 21, 2012 at 11:19 AM

Entry 4

Not being the type to waste an beach holiday by actually, y'know, sitting on a beach, we decided to spend the second day in china's tropical paradise in another highly rated "cultural experience". This one - the Yanoda tropical rainforest cultural experience haven't you given us enough money yet park - was "only" rated 4 As on the AAAAgh scale, which I've now worked out relates to how much your feet hurt after walking around the attraction for the day. It was, however, going to be my first experience of the famous Chinese tour group phenomenon. 
Yanoda means "one, two, three" in a local dialect, we are told, which may or may not be true. In any case it doubles as a greeting - what this translates to is every tour guide and employee (of which there are hundreds) screaming "YANODA!!!" at you at every opportunity and waving the peace sign with a frenzied glee. 
This is actually quite amusing and sweet, but apparently part of the military-style training which they go through. Also on the cards is a compulsory yanoda theme song and dance they must take part in at 20 minutes past every hour. I'm assuming the punishment for non compliance is being eaten alive by ants or being forced to take a tour group of Americans around or something. 
The whole place is an extremely Chinese experience. They have taken what seems to genuinely be a stretch of tropical rainforest, and turned it into a theme park - I wouldn't have been surprised if a roller coaster had roared past us as we admired a thousand year old fossilised mushroom.
Cheerful music is piped through a tannoy in the main areas, and elsewhere you are led by enthusiastic guides (Yanoda!!!!) who tell you all you'd want to know about the plants and animals you can find here. And if you can't find them naturally, they'll plant them in handy coconut (coconu.! Oh I said I'd stop) shells for you to admire anyway. 
But this is too negative. The whole thing is actually rather enjoyable, and it's nothing but clever how they've turned the natural world into an attraction. The whole park is signed up to a UNESCO responsible tourism mandate, which is comforting, although it clearly doesn't extend to the indigenous people who were thrown out to make way for the park and some of whom don't seem too happy about it, judging by some local workmen yelling at the tour car at one point (not Yanoda!!).
You even have a little electronic box (available in Chinese, English, russian, Japanese and klingon) that talks to you automatically through an earpiece when you reach the relevant part of the park. 99.99999% of people there were Chinese, and as the only English speaking member of the party, it seems I had a totally different guide box to everyone else, telling me different things at different times to everyone else. Not
That I minded, and I could be caught frequently chuckling at the slightly mangled English that blended instructions to view things that I couldn't see with slightly odd reminders of obscure Buddhist philosophy ("you see the three trees, yes you do (no I don't?!), this is a reminder of one gives birth to two, two gives birth to three, three gives birth to everything. Now we have a good understanding")
Replete with buffet and photos of scantily clad girls doing the Yanoda (YANODAAAAAA!!)  dance, we took the bus back to our guest house and decided our aching bodies could do with a massage, available on the beach behind our house. Unfortunately it turned out nearly everything on the beach closed at 5pm (the wind made it a bit cold I assume). Fortunately we managed to find one place just closing who were willing to extend their hours as business wasn't so good recently. Family run, Christine was pummelled by an elderly gentleman, and I was dealt with by... Well, see now this is going to sound wrong. Let me just state that I received a professional fully clothed massage on my back by a very strong (yet wafer thin) 17 year old girl. There is no way to make that sound not wrong. I'm just going to leave it there. We all played the "Guess steve's age" game that everyone pleasantly sucks at, reducing my age by 10 years. 
Rich mahogany, my apartment smells of rich mahogany :-)

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xiao_liang
January 22, 2012 at 06:04 AM

Yea, i can't imagine many australians finding Hainan's attractions to their taste. Russians and northern Chinese though..

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pretzellogic
January 22, 2012 at 06:03 AM

Well, then I guess it's what I thought. I guess we're characterizing it differently though. I thought Beijing is "crawling" with foreigners, but the ratio is something like 1 foreigner to 1000 Chinese. Sounds like that's the same ratio down in Hainan/Guangzhou.

My in-laws are visiting from the US, and they casually reported that United 851 was 3/4 full of Chinese returning for 春节。

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bodawei
January 22, 2012 at 06:01 AM

Sydney Airport has great big electronic poster ads for Hainan.

This gets my prize for the biggest waste of money on advertising this year.

(No disrespect meant to your holiday destination Xiao_liang.)

Put it this way - you would not be leaving Australia and going to Hainan for the beaches. Australia does have an advantage over China in beaches.

A lot of Chinese people go to Hainan for the shopping - but again, Australians have their own retailers in distress. If you can't get a 50% - 70% discount you are not trying. I put it down to a pride/face thing .. and it makes me smile.

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xiao_liang
January 22, 2012 at 05:38 AM

Pics still on the camera!

Hainan in particular seemed a very chinese centric place. There were a lot of Russians around near certain beach areas, but to my perception, all the foreigners just stayed at the beach. Most of the time i was the only foreigner and most days I'd say we saw less than 20 non-chinese maximum.

Guangzhou is a little different, because Christine's parents live in Baiyun district, where a lot of foreigners live. But they're mostly black (african) and a few south Asian. White faces are still pretty rare. Possibly because of the time of year. It's not western holiday season and prices are high, so why travel?

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pretzellogic
January 22, 2012 at 05:01 AM

It's kinda interesting that you seem to end up on places where you're the only foreigner there. Is this my perception, or is this the comical reality? I ask because it seems like in Beijing, foreigners of all nationalities are crawling all over the place, and I would have thought that in Guangdong and Hainan, it would have somewhat been the same thing. I've never been to either place, so I certainly don't know from experience.

By the way, where are the pics?

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xiao_liang
January 20, 2012 at 11:14 AM

Entry 3

Coconuts. It's fair to say that Sanya is a fan of the coconut, seeing as how you can't walk out of your front door without tripping over 3 trees and a luvverly bunch of coconuts. Up until today I don't think I've ever seen a coconut tree. Now I've seen ALL THE TREES. 
Anyway, that's irrelevant, no-one actually cares about coconuts. We had various plans today, most of which involved being on a beach in the sunshine at some point. My particular plans involved a ring on a beach at sunset, but best laid plans and all that...
We opted to go and see the Han Shan temple and cultural thingy come give us lots of money zone. At some point, someone important and with the power to wield an enormous amount of government money  found a nice bit of tropical hainan coastline and said, "hmm, what this coastline needs is a 300 foot 3-sided statue of the buddhist deity GuanYin. It also needs a massive supporting temple complex and more gift shops than you would realistically ever know what to do with."
And so we set off, opting to go for public bus, because given the choice, I'll even mix with common people if it means paying a pittance to get somewhere. The first part of the journey was simple enough, and before the next leg we popped into a supermarket where I purchased a fantastic wicker cowboy hat to keep the sun off. I had the choice between one marked "ronaldino" and one with the name of a tourist destination to which I hadn't actually been. I went for the latter, apparently I don't have the finesse to pull off a ronaldino.
We wandered over to the next bus stop where as usual I stood like a clueless fool waiting for my lovely girlfriend to work out exactly what we were supposed to be doing. A couple of ladies started talking to her, saying "oh, that bus already went, yeah, actually it's really late to be going there, you'd be much better getting a taxi now, oh it just happens I know a guy who can drive you there, shall I call him? Yea that bus hardly ever comes, it's really rare..." 
while this diatribe continued I happened to notice a bus pull up behind us with our destination written on the side in massive letters.  10块 later, we were on our way, leaving two disappointed scammers to look for another couple of tourists to scalp. 
I thought the bus was pretty full. I was wrong. It was actually empty. The meaning of "full bus" became apparent later on as the ever-frantic conductor crammed ever more people into the aisle, the overhead luggage compartment, that little space between the brake and accelerator pedals and into the wheel arches. The bus swayed and creaked its merry way along, bumping as it occasionally went over a bad bit of road, too-slow pedestrian or unfortunate cyclist. 
The temple was actually quite lovely. It's rated according to the Chinese "A" scale of tourist traps I mean destinations, rating a maximum 5 As or AAAAAgh rating. What's quite nice is that in line with its sacred nature, the authorities have done their best to create a place that can meet the needs of the avaristic tourist market whilst also being in sympathy with the environment. And who am I to turn down the opportunity to wander up to a breathtaking sea vista broken only by a colossal white statue of a graceful goddess, drinking juice from a fresh coconut (coconuts!) through a straw, wearing a ridiculous hat. 
Everything there was well thought out, so long as you're not averse to temples, incense and buddhist philosophy. It's actually quite easy to forget that the whole place is practically brand new and constructed specifically for tourism. As well as the truly spectacular GuanYin, a statue so vast your mind struggles to contain its scale, my favourite was the bell garden, where a collection of truly ancient bells hang out their senior years, and you can chime out your thanks, wishes and prayers on three giant bells, using huge fractured logs, hung from ropes. 

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zhenlijiang
January 21, 2012 at 04:39 PM

订婚了订婚了~ 恭喜你们两个!

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cinnamonfern
January 20, 2012 at 02:47 PM

Hurrah! 恭喜啊!

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podster
January 20, 2012 at 02:28 PM

Congratulations!

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podster
January 20, 2012 at 02:27 PM

clap clap clap

(the suspense was killing me)

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kimiik
January 20, 2012 at 01:31 PM

clap clap clap

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xiao_liang
January 20, 2012 at 11:15 AM

My cunning plan was to wait for the no-doubt-breathtaking sunset and then hand in hand declare my love to Christine (via a carefully prepared speech) before dropping to one knee to rounds of applause by teary crowds of appreciative bystanders. But Sanya bay... Well, let's just say it's not exactly conducive to romantic heartfelt confessions, seeing as it's utterly heaving with people, there's a main road behind it and for Sanya drivers it's compulsory to use the horn at least 7 times in each 100m stretch of road. Then as the sun sank towards the sea, the clouds rolled in and i gave it up as a lost cause. Instead we wandered in search of a restaurant, risking our very lives by crossing several roads, over which there appeared to be no actual rules since cars, buses and bikes travelled both ways along both sides, often with no lights. Don't think pedestrian crossings are any safer, because that little green man is loosely translated in Hainan Chinese as "go faster, honk your horn if you can be arsed".

Dinner was sadly vile, but we were so knackered by the time we got there, we barely cared. I did get to have of those little rock star moments that china occasionally delivers. I was just heading upstairs to the loo and I heard one waitress whisper to another "he's coming!!", then they rushed giggling past, glancing up at me. I don't know how to put this, but uh, I'm kind of a big deal. And my apartment smells of rich mahogany. 

Back at the guesthouse, we were both shattered, but I was determined to see this through! The tension was killing me. I suggested, somewhat forcibly, that we take a walk along the beach, romantic moonlight walk! Christine wasn't keen, she was tired, blistered and really wanted to sleep, but bless her lovely socks, she agreed to have a stroll along the beach to see if anything was still open. 

So there, on the moonlit beach, soft music playing from a nearly-empty bar nearby, the time had come. My mind doing somersaults, my command of Chinese rapidly evaporated and I managed to squawk a few appropriate lines before falling to one knee and uttering the big question.

 Fortunately she said yes, otherwise it might have been a bit embarrassing, but we were both a bit surprised when a passing couple gave us the round of applause I'd been thinking of earlier. I love it when a plan comes together.

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xiao_liang
January 20, 2012 at 11:15 AM

We spent the best part of the day wandering the roads of the complex, suffering a little from the sweltering heat (I remind you: in the middle of january). Lunch was in a pleasantly air conditioned buffet restaurant, where the entirely vegetarian cuisine consisted of fake pork, fake chicken, fake beef... which makes the vegetarianism of the contents something of a moot point, but hey, it was cheap and good.

A little exhausted and sore of foot, we wandered back to the entrance  and caught the ludicrously overcrowded bus back to the "corridor of coconuts" (coconuts!), which is the strip of beach in front of Sanya bay. I say "strip of beach", like it's tiny. It's 18km of white sand, stretching into a pearlescent blue sea, lined by endless trees heaving with ripening coconuts (coconuts!). 

I'd been lugging a bag full of beach towels round all day specifically for this purpose and we were soon stretched out on the sand under a tree, risking certain death from plummeting coconuts (cocon... ok I'll stop) for the sake of some shade. 

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xiao_liang
January 20, 2012 at 02:46 AM

Entry 2

I swear to god, last night was the best night's sleep I've possibly ever had. I woke up feeling like a champion! Hoorah! Sadly the weather decided not to celebrate my glorious night's sleep, instead choosing to continue to attempt to show Guangzhou just how wet it's possible to be. It happens that the city is kind of beautiful in the downpour. Seen blade runner? It's like that, only cyborgs don't try and kill you. Much. 
Today we were travelling to Hainan, as close to a tropical paradise as china gets, for a mini holiday-in-a-holiday. But not until the evening, so planned for the day was lunch with grandma and grandpa, and ... um, a nap. Hey, travelling is tiring, get off my back. 
Lunch was actually very nice - Christine's family are lovely and so welcoming, and even her grandpa, who I'm slightly scared of, was in a good mood, friendly and happy. I was declared intelligent and even more handsome than last time. That's naturally ridiculous. It's impossible for me to get more handsome. 
One thing I did notice is a lot less staring from strangers than a couple of years ago. My freakish face must be a bit less freakish these days. I always found the staring quite fun, and it hasn't entirely gone away . I figure that must be what it's like to a very pretty girl, only instead of staring at my chest, everyone's looking at my astonishingly large nose. 
So not much happened today. We did take an internal flight, with ... Wait for it... No delays! I know! Unheard of. Who'd have thought it. I managed to terrify our taxi driver within an inch of his life by asking him if it would rain tomorrow. He was so shocked I was speaking Chinese he actually turned and stared at me for a good few seconds, which would be fine except he was doing about 50 down a 3 lane motorway. In the meantime I was furiously rebuked by Christine in an undertone as Sanya is a tourist and hawker heaven, and everyone will try and sell you something. Not this guy, he hurriedly put the radio on and I should imagine spent the rest of the journey praying fervently the scary foreigner didn't talk to him again. 
Right then, it's hot (at midnight!) our room is clean, cheap and air conditioned and I can smell the sea! Beach time tomorrow! Woo! Woo i say! Woo!

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xiao_liang
January 20, 2012 at 09:25 AM

谢谢cinnamonfern!

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cinnamonfern
January 20, 2012 at 03:56 AM

Hee hee - I love your posts Xiaoliang. 你的帖子是好像我弟弟写的。好搞笑啊! 我真喜欢读了。加油! ;D (我也觉得广州是漂亮的。)

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xiao_liang
January 19, 2012 at 03:31 PM

Entry 1
I confess, I wasn't going to write a journal this time.  But I keep seeing awesome things, and thinking "hey, I should totally write about that". So I'm totally writing about it. You probably guessed that. We're back in Guangzhou! A year and a half since the first momentous journey, and we've returned for chinese new year. Naturally, I've spent the entire time doing nothing but studying Chinese, so now I'm as fluent as it's possible to be... Er, ok, possibly not. Apparently you have to do something called "work" and "real life", anyway, study hasn't been foremost, but I have tried. Actually a massive surprise to me was that I can speak a lot more than last time, my comprehension is still disturbingly lacking, but we're getting there.
The flight... Ugh, the flight. 12 hours packed on a full plane of Chinese new year travellers. I counted 10 or more babies under the age of 2. If there's one thing I know about babies, it's that they looooove being confined on a plane and definitely don't cry endlessly. After about 6 hours of trying to sleep with my 6 foot frame pointedly telling me that "hey man, you don't fit here you know. You REALLY don't fit in this chair", I admitted defeat and watched every comedy Lufthansa inflight entertainment had to offer. 
I love Guangzhou, I really do. I think this city is beautiful. Christine looks at me like I'm mad, but the incredibly jumble of architectural styles is just so pleasing to the eye. Nature thrusts its head in everywhere, growing over bridge supports, with elegant tropical trees spanning walkways. There's something so graceful about the way the styles of buildings interlink, and there's no haphazard attempts to cover the functionality of living. Wires thread across alleyways, and antique air conditioning units creak and groan behind meshes of steel. 

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pretzellogic
January 20, 2012 at 02:22 PM

ok, i'll sheepishly go back to my tangential observations :-) I'll bring my sense of humor as well. Good thing that most of the people i'd love to have dinner with (living or dead) are comedians.

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xiao_liang
January 20, 2012 at 09:19 AM

I put a ;-)!! Was only teasing, but you were exactly right :-)

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pretzellogic
January 20, 2012 at 04:31 AM

Ok, for the record:

1) I'm only interested in the flying.

2) I still don't know the dates you flew, nor am I really that interested.

3) You still have plenty of anonymity, as there are thousands of white European guys marrying Chinese women every year (my guess), so no one knows which one is really you.

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xiao_liang
January 20, 2012 at 02:00 AM

Yea, last time i came there was a little crocodile guarding the restaurant!

He said, "阿,我们明白。你喜欢他。" sorry, nothing unusual or revelationary. Just basic enough so that even i could understand it... I don't know what else he said though! We're going to ask mum today while he's at work:-)

and pretzellogic is actually quite scary ;-)

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bababardwan
January 20, 2012 at 01:08 AM

"guard caiman"...you shenme yisi? ni de yisi shi bu shi ...crocodiles guarding the restaurant [statues] or cai refers to some dish?

"her dad said (effectively), "yea, yea, we get it, you like her" "

..you don't recall the chinese do you? it's always interesting to hear the natives selection of language to express things

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pretzellogic
January 19, 2012 at 04:45 PM

ok. Lufthansa 786. 12 hours. London-Frankfurt-Guangzhou?

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xiao_liang
January 19, 2012 at 03:32 PM

It's raining at the moment. Slight understatement. Someone heavenly has decided Guangdong needs a bath and is liberally throwing water at the city in an unending deluge. It actually makes the city even more romantic, and the pace of life continues unabated. Just with umbrellas. Or large plastic sheets held on your head in some cases. 

We had a nice dinner with 伯父 and  伯母 last night. No guard caiman this time, but the happy tradition of ordering literally everything on the menu continued. We had 12 courses. 12 COURSES! But I am proud to announce that I have mastered the art of eating with Chinese people. So proud. It's simple: eat everything, but eat slowly. So you are constantly eating, but at rate that stops well-meaning relatives from piling food on your plate expectantly. 

The restaurant was full of work colleagues enjoying their annual new year's dinner. I say enjoying. If being constantly forced to down glass after glass of red wine is enjoyment, then so be it! As we eventually left (carrying the inevitable 5 doggy bags, literally in some cases because I'm sure half of the food was destined for the family's pet mini-lion, 宝宝), one guy was asleep on his chair and another 2 looked well on the way to spectacularly redecorating the inside of a taxi somewhere. Ahhh, social drinking pressure, my old friend.

The country is a-buzz with news of the Taiwan general election. I'm not sure how this country, which after all has no real choice in government, views an election in a country that the chinese see as an errant wayward child well overdue returning to the fold. I gather the number 2 choice is vehemently anti-china, so perhaps it's a mixture of relief and mild jealousy. I'm not fluent or brave enough to ask. 

I wrote about gift-giving last time, but i get the impression it's going to step up a level this time. New year means 红包, hong bao or red envelopes. You give them for luck, and they contain money. Thing is, they are given to Unmarried young people, and amusing enough, even though I'm 34, I still count. Still, Christine takes the fore, so I'm happy to stand back and watch her potentially work out how to gracefully accept someone younger than her giving her money. hang on, what am I saying?! Why am i seeing something wrong with people giving me money?! This is awesome!

I suppose at some point we should do something about that whole getting married lark eh? Now that would be something to write home about! 

Siiiiiince you mention it. Dinner gave me the opportunity to get dad and mum alone when Christine was away from the table. I had prepared an elegant speech (well, elegant...ish, given my Chinese. Hopelessly clumsy, you might say). I launched into it, explaining how we were very happy and how much I like her. I began listing her admirable qualities (of which there are many).  Pausing for breath halfway through, her dad said (effectively), "yea, yea, we get it, you like her". Anyway, apparently it's ok to ask her to marry me, which is lucky, cos that's what I'm going to do!

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xiao_liang
January 19, 2012 at 12:42 PM

Is anyone interested in seeing my little holiday journal? It was quite fun posting it last time. No worries if not! I will blog it all and post the link with photos when I get back, because I'm attention seeking like that ;-)

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xiao_liang
January 19, 2012 at 02:47 PM

Dude, you haven't already bought a subscription to xiaoliangslife.com? 24 hour streaming access!

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bababardwan
January 19, 2012 at 01:55 PM

"Have random strangers take video of you"

...lol :)

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pretzellogic
January 19, 2012 at 01:43 PM

you're a funny guy. Post your pictures and blog real time. Add color by letting your fiance, 爸爸,妈妈 contribute content directly. Have random strangers take video of you, so we know what you and Christine look like together. Post video on youtube AND youku.

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bababardwan
January 19, 2012 at 12:50 PM

很感兴趣,来给看我们吧

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xiao_liang
January 18, 2012 at 01:19 AM

Hmm, I tried to add my first diary entry (unedited, I hasten to add!) let's see if it works now:

 

.. Oh, hmm it doesn't. The 5000 char limit is back. I though it was raised to 10000?!

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xiao_liang
January 19, 2012 at 10:57 AM

谢谢大家 :-)

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babyeggplant
January 19, 2012 at 03:35 AM

好浪漫

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jennyzhu
January 19, 2012 at 01:48 AM

恭喜你!春节、求婚双喜临门。

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bababardwan
January 18, 2012 at 03:11 PM

恭喜恭喜,你成功了!

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xiao_liang
January 18, 2012 at 02:45 PM

Oh, haha. Asking mum and dad was in the comments that were deleted! It went fine :-) I didn't get most of what dad said but it was generally positive.

Proposal went down great! I may or may not have drawn heavily from the chinesepod dialogue, but fortunately, once she'd recovered from the shock, she said yes :-) a moonlit beach in Sanya is a good place to propose :-)

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jennyzhu
January 18, 2012 at 03:01 AM

你成功了吗?

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pretzellogic
January 18, 2012 at 01:26 AM

ok, get to the point. Did you ask mom/dad yet, and did you ask Christine yet, and did everyone say yes?

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xiao_liang
January 17, 2012 at 12:23 AM

Oh, half the comments disappeared, that's a shame. Related to the server problem I'd imagine?

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bababardwan
January 17, 2012 at 12:43 AM

see here mate:

http://chinesepod.com/community/conversations/post/12569

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pretzellogic
January 13, 2012 at 01:43 PM

BTW, it probably doesn't need to be said, but you should come back and tell us when the wedding date is. Let us know if the wedding is in the UK or China, so the appropriate cpodders can crash the wedding :-)

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xiao_liang
January 14, 2012 at 01:32 PM

Haha. Chances of my dad paying for a wedding in china is rather minuscule :-) he's legendarily tight-fisted as it is!

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zhenlijiang
January 13, 2012 at 04:25 PM

oops this☝ shouldn’t have come down here.

Here I was just wishing I could crash the wedding (wouldn't know if I’d be "appropriate" though! lol).

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zhenlijiang
January 13, 2012 at 03:41 PM

Intermediate - "Getting Dad Alone". Sounds like a potential Best of ChinesePod lesson to me. If you allow CPod to use your comment they already have an intro too.

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pretzellogic
January 13, 2012 at 03:35 PM

I am certainly not an expert in such things, but I thought in China, the groom's family pays for everything, and does the planning as well. Time for some father/son bonding!?

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xiao_liang
January 13, 2012 at 03:13 PM

Well, she is Chinese and we've been going out for a few years, so naturally she's planned most of it already :-p I think she's planning one in England, one in china. Sheesh! And you'd be very welcome, chinesepod massive! Although I'm not sure I could persuade anyone to come to 广州 from 上海!

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watch.tv.more
January 13, 2012 at 10:27 AM

Good luck ! Are you Chinese-British or white-British ? By the way, is there a term for Chinese-British people ? In the states there is "ABC" for American Born Chinese people . I've always thought it's interesting that Chinese-Americans call themselves "ABC" , because "American born Chinese"  sounds to me like they're not American, but rather Chinese people who were born in another country (America) . I also think that may be why every Chinese person I've met here in China knows what "ABC" means 

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xiao_liang
January 13, 2012 at 03:11 PM

She's from 广州 guang Zhou :-)

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watch.tv.more
January 13, 2012 at 02:17 PM

cool, what part of China is your (hopefully) soon-to-be fiance from ?

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watch.tv.more
January 13, 2012 at 02:16 PM

hahah, there is a TV channel called "ABC" and it stands for "American broadcasting company"

ABC

CBC

BBC

....coincidence or conspiracy ? probably just a coincidence

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bicycle-repairman
January 13, 2012 at 01:47 PM

Canadian-chinese are "CBC". The CBC is the Canadian Broadcasting Corporation (the canadian BBC). What about Australia, anyone?

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xiao_liang
January 13, 2012 at 12:28 PM

I'm white British. But British born Chinese call themselves BBC!

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zhenlijiang
January 13, 2012 at 07:45 AM

As always it's nice to get these little (and major!) updates on your life XiaoLiang (^v^)

祝你好运 ,一路平安!

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bababardwan
January 14, 2012 at 07:17 PM

噢,越来越有意思。真可惜你没有【?】视频或者录音。。。在这些情况下有录音的话我们能帮助你听写,翻译,分析爸爸的反应等等

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bababardwan
January 14, 2012 at 07:05 PM

哈哈,很好的建议

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bababardwan
January 14, 2012 at 07:05 PM

"do let us know if you manage to pull off any of the lines from the dialogue"

我跟toianw同意。

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xiao_liang
January 14, 2012 at 01:36 PM

Well, I got though the first bit while she popped away from the table at dinner with both mum and dad. Reaction was ... Interesting. Positive, I think! Not really sure half of what was said, if I'm entirely honest :-p still that's the first bit done. Just need to hope it stops raining for 3 minutes do I can find somewhere pretty to ask...

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zhenlijiang
January 13, 2012 at 04:44 PM

Intermediate - "Getting Dad Alone". Sounds like a potential Best of ChinesePod lesson to me. If you allow CPod to use your comment they already have an intro too.

加油!

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toianw
January 13, 2012 at 02:24 PM

BTW, do let us know if you manage to pull off any of the lines from the dialogue. It's quality stuff if I remember correctly. (Not sure how effective it would be with dad though:-)

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xiao_liang
January 13, 2012 at 09:02 AM

Hehe!

First I've got to get her dad alone and try and struggle my way through the whole "er, your daughter, can I marry her?" conversation. No English. Oh boy.

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pretzellogic
January 13, 2012 at 02:54 AM

Posting in public that you're going to ask your girlfriend to marry you. I guess she doesn't have a cpod subscription. Xiao_liang, best of luck to you.  Enjoy the flight. 

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bababardwan
January 14, 2012 at 07:02 PM

hey yeah, they were my thoughts exactly too, haha. Wasn't under the impression you needed a subscription to read the boards though,..thought it was only if you wanted to post.

Xiaoliang...祝你好运朋友

btw great gif of kermit...certainly good representation of panic, hehe.

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xiao_liang
January 13, 2012 at 09:01 AM

Haha! She doesn't, so I'm safe there :-)

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chris
January 13, 2012 at 03:15 AM

hehe, I had exactly the same thought! Good luck xiaoliang!

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hamshank
January 13, 2012 at 02:05 AM

Once you get down on one knee with a ring in your hand I am sure you won't have to say much! :)

Good luck.

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xiao_liang
January 13, 2012 at 03:21 PM

Thanks!

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xiao_liang
January 12, 2012 at 11:09 PM

Oh bless you Chinesepod!

 

http://chinesepod.com/lessons/will-you-marry-me/dialogue

 

Something to study on the flight eh?

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buchanda
January 13, 2012 at 04:33 PM

exciting!! good luck :-)

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xiao_liang
January 13, 2012 at 03:21 PM

Thank you both ! :-)

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jennyzhu
January 13, 2012 at 02:51 AM

祝你好运!!!!!

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toianw
January 13, 2012 at 01:12 AM

呵呵 - All the best, mate. Have a fantastic trip!